At most fashion shows, the clothes are already steamed and pressed before public reveal. At Issey Miyake Fall 2012's show, however, several hangers of rather boxy clothing were set on the runway, while well-coiffed attendants began to steam these limp-looking pieces in the midst of fashion’s judging eyes. Such was the debut of “Steam Stretch,” Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s newest innovation in the realm of pleating technique. In a matter of seconds, these shapeless garments were transformed into crinkled gowns and dresses that were then placed on freshly scrubbed models in burlap slips. Voilà—the show, themed “Mineral Miracle,” has only just begun.

Once again, orange appears to be a popular color for fall, and Yoshiyuki Miyamae chose to embrace the trend with puffy coats with attached bright floral turbans—convenient for chilly days, one would assume. The ubiquitous metallics trend also makes an apperance in the form of tritoned brown, silver and black low-heeled boots. However, the line stays true to its innovative focus on textiles instead of pandering to the current trends. For example, three different thicknesses of yarn are embroidered onto fine jersey using a special machine, and textured woolen waffle coats feature hidden water repellant coverings.

While the “Steam Stretch” dresses provided the most theatrics, the real showstopper in the collection were the subtly iridescent coats. Forget the classic peacoat—at Issey Miyake, you’re better off bundling up in a high-tech cocoon.