Nicky Zimmermann, founder and Creative Director of Australian RTW and Swim brand Zimmermann, presented her Spring 2014 ready-to-wear collection this morning at The Studio at Lincoln Center. While the brand has presented its collection in a variety of formats season after season in both Sydney and New York, this is the first year that Zimmermann has shown during New York Fashion Week. With their growing presence in the US, they look to make NYC their base to show each season.
In the Spring 2014 collection – The Ringmaster – we see designer Nicky Zimmermann explore the moody and enigmatic language of the circus. She takes inspiration from the age-old art and translates it to a modern, sophisticated and feminine collection of dresses, separates and luxe swimwear.
Captivated by the romance of performance, Zimmermann delves into the moody and enigmatic language of the circus for Spring 2014. Exuding a sultry strength, this season walks a tightrope between the whimsy of an age-old art and the dominant sophistication of an entirely modern attitude.
A complex show of juxtaposition, designer Nicky Zimmermann’s play on proportions defies gravity with buoyant, coated fabrications floating like puffs of air around the body; grounded by knife-sharp, plunging V-necks and contoured diagonal lines.
The thrill of the unexpected is delivered in asymmetrical cut-away tailoring, slashed out panels, circular key-hole backs and sheer prints that give the illusion of now you see it, now you don’t.
Youthful optimism is brought to life through a lavish use of material in flippy ruffled collars, paper bag waists, handkerchief hemlines and full circular skirts that dance with every movement. Colour is injected as though looking at old photographs; dreamy, feminine hues softening a bold base of black and white.
Print and texture work in tandem, adding a sense of drama and depth to the ring. Graphic patterns are tactile to touch in woven metallic stripes, embossed ropes and honeycomb lace. Pretty floral, diamond and polka dot motifs are tainted by smudged clown faces, lifelike tiger stripes and dripping black paint, hinting at something more sinister.
Swimwear reinforces the collection’s sex appeal, bonding panels of differing opacities to the body and highlighting technical construction through criss-crossed elastic banding and laser-cut mesh frills.
Completing this theatrical presentation are cage-like neck pieces and cuffs with oversized square stone pendants, pointe-inspired shoes with wide elastic tied around the ankle in a flat bow, and fold-over clutches in supple pony hair that slouch into the arm.
Stealing the spotlight, The Ringmaster is a spectacle of skill with a touch of trickery that calls for an encore.