The Dior Homme's Spring 2013 collection continues to explore military uniform themes designer that Kris Van Assche started with in last season's Army motifs. This season the focus is on the Navy, with much of the collection in Navy blue, and includes other naval touches such as sweaters with corded sailor stripes as well as the contrasting buttons on jackets and blazers. The press release enclosed below explains the collection in more detail.
THE BLAZER IS THE STARTING POINT. ITS TIMELESS QUALITY MIXING RIGOR, PRECISION AND DASH ACTS AS A SARTORIAL SIGNPOST, LEAVING A TRAIL OF NAVY BLUES AND ULTRAMARINES IN ITS WAKE. ITS CHARACTERISTIC BUTTONS ACCOMMODATE NEWER CUTS AND SPORTSWEAR MATERIALS. PICKING UP WHERE THE PREVIOUS SEASON LEFT OFF, THIS DIOR HOMME SPRING/SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION FURTHER DEVELOPS THE LINK BETWEEN MILITARY UNIFORMS, SPORTS CLOTHES AND OUTDOOR APPAREL. AND, IN TURN, THE HANDWORK, FINISH AND TAILORING SAVOIR-FAIRE INHERENT TO THE HOUSE.
THE SILHOUETTE IS PRECISE, SOFT, ELONGATED. THE NEW JACKET IS SHORTENED AND FITTED, DRAWN WITH LINEAR ALLURE. ANOTHER OFFERING IS DOUBLE-BREASTED WITH STRONGER SHOULDERS. BOMBER JACKETS, PARKAS, WINDBREAKERS AND PEACOATS ARE ALSO REBORN IN MATERIALS THAT SPEAK OF SPORTSWEAR OR PURE LUXURY. THEIR SIGNATURE DETAILS – RIBBED COLLAR AND CUFFS, VERTICAL POCKETS, DRAWSTRINGS - ARE TRANSPOSED ONTO MORE FORMAL CLOTHING. OR VICE VERSA. RED TOPSTITCHING ACTS AS A COMMON THREAD, BOTH FIGURATIVE AND LITERAL. THE LINEN TAPE TRIMMING THE INTERNAL MOUNTS IN THE TAILORING TRADITION SKETCHES A GRAPHIC RHYTHM THROUGH MESH-LIKE OPENWORK FABRICS. WITH OR WITHOUT SLEEVES, SWEATERS SLIP ON WITH SOFTNESS AND EASE. FLAT-PLEAT AND FLATFRONT TROUSERS SLIM THE LEGS.
THE BUTTONS ARE ENGRAVED WITH THE COAT OF ARMS OF THE HOUSE’S FOUNDER. CERTAIN PRACTICAL COMPONENTS INCLUDING ZIPS, PRESS STUDS AND SPORTSWEAR DRAWSTRINGS, ARE TRANSFORMED INTO THE SEASON’S DECORATIVE ELEMENTS. CORDING IS USED TO CREATE KNITWEAR STRIPES. DOUBLE-WELT DERBIES AND THE LEATHER ACCESSORIES, BOTH WITH READ STITCH DETAILING, ARE THE ONLY LEATHER ITEMS TO APPEAR IN BLACK.
NAVY BLUE REIGNS. NUANCES IN TONE VARY BETWEEN FABRICS AND LEATHERS. THE LINEN HUE OF THE TAILORING MOUNTS FORGES A CONNECTION FROM ONE SEASON TO THE NEXT. RED ACTS AS AN EXCLAMATION POINT, A STRONGLY REBELLIOUS NOTE IN THE SEA OF BLUES. MATERIALS ARE AS LIGHT AND LUMINOUS AS THE NAME OF THE COLLECTION IMPLIES. LIGHT-WEIGHT WOOLS AND PRINCE OF WALES CHECK, COTTON POPLIN AND TWOFOLD, SILK SATIN AND TAFFETA, WOOL AND SILK KNITS, PAPER-LIKE KANGAROO LEATHER, TECHNO MESH AND NYLON CANVAS.